I was never a good student, but I was always fascinated by things that pushed the limits of my imagination. Geography was one of the few subjects that could completely capture me with its unique and thrilling facts. My parents would often end up giving us history books for kids or a little atlas (along with plenty of toys, of course!), and although a book might not be a child’s most desired gift, it always holds countless mysteries—and there’s no escaping that. Soon, I began to learn more about the highest mountains, the longest and mightiest rivers, lunar landscapes, untouched jungles, and flags with unique symbolism... so much to discover, all packed into just a few pages.

As the years went by, that interest only grew—now with the possibility of exploring some of those places in person, and also with the ability to access even more alluring and mysterious corners of the world without leaving my chair: little-known places, lost cities, forgotten territories, impossible deserts, micronations, and destinations that were nearly unreachable. Bhutan, North Korea, or Antarctica—each inaccessible for different reasons—were all part of a future journey, of a thousand and one adventures and experiences yet to be lived. And even today, many of them still are. Those places were distant, and one needed some logistics (and a budget) to visit them properly.

In the autumn of 2023, while preparing for a work trip to Athens planned for late winter, I started researching the north of the country—specifically the region of Macedonia, birthplace of Alexander the Great and, for centuries, a battleground between the Greeks and all who have tried, in vain, to destroy them.

Most tourists who visit northern Greece are drawn to the breathtaking cliffs of Meteora, the crystal-clear waters of Corfu, or the trails and villages surrounding the awe-inspiring Vikos Gorge. Greece’s second-largest city, Thessaloniki, is often left out of the most popular tours and itineraries, and yet, for nearly a century, it was the de facto capital of an empire that once ruled much of Europe. Even today, the yellow flag with the double-headed eagle flies high over churches and civic buildings, and many continue to venerate the same icons, the same symbols, and uphold the same traditions. The past, here, is still alive.

Thessaloniki has much to offer, but it’s far from a remote or inaccessible destination. The city is the perfect starting point to dive into the deep history of this region. From there, travelers can visit Pella and Vergina, places that mark both the beginning—and for many, the end—of one of the most legendary epics in history. Not far away lie the ruins of Philippi, the city that gave its name to one of the most decisive battles of the Roman Second Triumvirate. Past and present blend in a region that has everything for lovers of history, art, and even nature (though my itinerary didn’t include the famous Lake Kerkini).

What I didn’t expect to discover, just two hours away by car, was a place almost unknown to the world—hidden among the many wonders this country has to offer, barely touched by tourism, frozen in time, inaccessible to most—and that is, in every way, the last living and tangible stronghold of the Byzantine Empire, Mount Athos.

Northern Greece hadn’t been part of my travel plans. But it should have been. Because sometimes, it’s the places we overlook that end up leaving the deepest mark.